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Amaryllis is the ultimate Holiday Season flower, making a powerful statement with its beautiful trumpet flowers and impressively large bulb. Ideal for indoor growing in colder climes, giving people who normally have to forego flower bulbs a chance to enjoy these beauties all winters around. QUICK GUIDE WHEN: Indoors: Plant 4-8 weeks before desired blooming time Outdoors: Plant in fall WHERE: Partial shade Well-draining soil WIDTH & DEPTH: Indoors: 1” apart Outdoors: 4” apart Depth: Pointy end sticking out 1” STORAGE: When your amaryllis arrive and you can’t plant them immediately, it’s important to store them correctly: unpack them right away and put them in a dry place with plenty of air circulation, where the temperature is between 15 and 20 degrees Celsius. GARDEN & CONTAINER PLANTING Flower bulbs are tough cookies that are easy to grow, but one thing they hate is getting their feet wet: a bulb that is ‘bathing’ in water will rot in no time. So avoid soggy soil at all cost – this means places where you can still see puddles 5-6 hours after a rainstorm. Another thing you can do is to upgrade potentially soggy soil by adding organic material such as peat or manure. When it comes to planting bulbs in containers, the mantra is exactly the same: drainage-drainage-drainage. Get a pot or box with at least some drainage holes at the bottom. Amaryllis need the sun to grow, but full sun can burn their leaves, so a place with dappled sunlight or some shade is ideal. To help the bulbs settle and grow roots quickly, it’s important to water them well after planting. After that they’ll need some light watering once the first green growths are starting to appear. During blooming season, you generally don’t have to water your amaryllis, but you can water them when there hasn’t been any rain for 3-5 days. After amaryllis have finished blooming, don’t cut the foliage straight away: through photosynthesis the leaves will create nutrients that the bulb will be needing for its next growing season. After a few weeks the foliage will automatically yellow and die back, and then you can remove it. Now the bulb will be going dormant, and won’t need any watering until next season. HOW TO PLANT AMARYLLIS INDOORS: Around 6 weeks before your intended blooming time, fill a sturdy pot two inches wider and a few inches taller than the bulb with well-draining soil. Place the Amaryllis in the pot with their pointy end up and cover them with soil, but make sure 1” of the pointy end remains uncovered. Amaryllis like to be close together, so if you plant more than one in a pot, keep about 1” between them. Water well. Place the pot in a sunny location, like a windowsill. Make sure to rotate the pot daily so the Amaryllis won’t start leaning over to one side. When new green growth appears it’s time to start watering again, but just to keep the soil moist, not waterlogged. After the amaryllis have bloomed don’t cut off the foliage. Leave it until it’s completely withered and yellow, then remove. HOW TO PLANT AMARYLLIS IN YOUR GARDEN: Find a spot with partial sunlight and well-draining soil. Place the Amaryllis bulb in the soil with the pointy end up and cover them with soil, but make sure that 1” of the pointy end remains uncovered. Amaryllis looks best in groups of 5-7 bulbs, with about 4” between each bulb. Water well. When new green growth appears it’s time to start watering again, but just to keep the soil moist, not waterlogged. After the amaryllis have bloomed don’t cut off the foliage. Leave it until it’s completely withered and yellow, then remove.

Gardeners coping with sandy soil daydream about sticky clay! Light, free-draining, quick to warm up... sounds like horticultural heaven, doesn’t it? But those of us who have actually had to work with sandy soil know better. Sand undoubtedly has its plus points, but it has its challenges, too. Fortunately, there is a simple way to alleviate some of the problems it presents – namely, poor fertility and a tendency to dry out fast. How to Tell if You Have Sandy Soil To work out what kind of soil you have you need to perform a soil test. Take a handful of soil, dampen it, then try rolling it into a sausage shape. Sandy soil will crumble and fall apart. You’ll be able to make out the individual grains. Clay soil will stick together easily and can be rubbed to a dull sheen. Turn Sandy Soil into Sandy Loam The next step requires a little more work. Sandy soils are less fertile than other soil types, and more prone to drying out, because they’re made up of relatively large particles. This means there are cavernous gaps between the particles, making it easy for water (and water-soluble nutrients) to filter down through the soil, out of the reach of plant roots. We need to partially plug up those gaps and help the soil to hold on to water and nutrients. So here’s how to do it: Add organic manure (it really is that simple!) Organic manure is a kind of cure-all in the garden. You can’t go wrong with organic manure. It will improve any soil type. Any organic matter will work to build soil structure and its ability to hold onto water. Compost and manure are preferred because they are rich in nutrients, which they drip-feed to your plants. Over time, they’ll also help to increase the pH of acidic sandy soils. I won’t lie – sandy soils do need a lot of organic matter, frequently applied, to make a difference. The warmer your climate, the faster organic matter will break down, and the more often your soil will need replenishing. Start with at least two bucketfuls of organic matter per square meter once a year. Added to the soil surface as a mulch where it will help to protect the soil from scouring rain and winds. Keep notes on how well your crops fare and, if you feel they’re underperforming, up the frequency to twice a year. You could also try three bucketsful, or four. It’s worth adding more in summer if you can too. Grass clippings are a free, regularly available resource that help to reduce evaporation, and they’ll provide a modest flush of nitrogen to boost plant growth too. Improving your soil takes several seasons. But even with the best will in the world, it will always be sandy soil at heart. ‘Work with what you’ve got’ is good advice! So let’s take a look at which vegetables naturally grow well in sandy soil. Root vegetables are sandy soil superstars. Motivated by thirst, plants with long taproots like carrots and radish are perfectly designed to reach down into the moister soil that lies several inches below the surface. You might want to consider installing drip irrigation to gradually water and feed your plants.

Gladiolus is a beautiful half-hardy flower that grows well in the winter season in the plains of India. The name derives from the Latin word gladius, meaning “sword”. The spiked petals give it a distinct shape and the flowers come in a wide variety of vibrant colours, making for a spectacular view in any garden or yard. This crop is best suited for sowing in the beds. While they don’t bloom continuously throughout the season, gardeners can plant them on a staggered schedule to ensure that their garden is always bursting with the great colours of this low-maintenance flower. How To Plant Gladiolus t: Gladiolus grow and flower best in full sun. Gladiolus corms will flower in part shade, but the colours will not be as vivid as when planted in full sun, and the plant won't grow quite as wLighell. Soil: Gladiolus like well-drained, sandy loam soil. The corms will rot if the soil is too heavy and remains wet. If you have clay soil, grow in flatbeds and loosen the soil to 12 inches deep before planting. Fertilize the soil well with Farm Yard Manure (FYM) before planting. Spacing: Space gladiolus corms 6 to 8 inches apart in the garden and plant corms 2 to 4 inches deep depending upon the size of the corm (plant bigger corms deeper). Planting: Plant gladiolus corms in autumn. To enjoy flowers all winter, plant your Glads every one week starting September until early October. This will stagger the plantings and flowering times. You can also extend the flower season by growing early, mid and late-season Gladiolus varieties. How To Care For Gladiolus Throughout the Season Growth Habit: Gladiolus have narrow, sword-like leaves and tall flower stalks. The flower stalks can grow 2 to 3 feet tall while only spreading 1 foot wide. Staking: Gladiolus flower stalks need to be staked, caged or supported so they don't flop over, or become deformed and curved due to summer storms. Soon after planting, push flower stakes into the ground or add supports around the corm. Do this early so as not to damage the flower. As soon as the flower stalk forms, tie it loosely to a stake with a soft material, or use flower rings to support it. Remove the stakes after the flower is harvested or fades. Planting gladiolus in groups in the garden or next to tall bushy plants is another way to keep them growing upright without producing crooked flower stalks. Watering: Keep gladiolus plants well watered with at least 1 inch of water a week. This amount may have to increase during periods of drought or if you're growing in raised beds. Fertilising: Add compost (FYM) to the soil before planting gladiolus. Add an organic, water-soluble fertiliser when the plants are 10 inches tall, and again when the flowers start to show colour. Some kind of Nitrogenous fertilizer is required when plants are about one foot tall. Trimming & Pruning: Gladiolus are either grown as a cut flower for indoor arrangements, or as an annual flower in the garden. They don't require trimming or pruning. The flower stalk is harvested in the morning for flower arrangements when the lower 3 blossoms on the stalks just begin to open. Leave at least 4 leaves on the plant to rejuvenate the corms if you plan on saving them for next year. In the garden, deadhead the flower stalk after the flowers fade. This will also prevent the flowers from setting seed and self-sowing throughout your beds. Although these seedlings will eventually get large enough to flower, it will take years and the seedlings can become weedy. However, the best method is to preserve corms after the season and store indoors in a dry cool place for sowing again next year. Mulching: To preserve soil moisture, mulch plants once they emerge from the soil with a 2 to 3-inch thick layer of straw or bark mulch. Mulching can be done with dark polythene sheet. Gladiolus don't compete well with weeds. If the area where you'd like to plant is weedy, weed before applying the mulch. The mulch should help with weed control as well. Pests/ Disease: The best way to avoid insects and disease problems on gladiolus is to buy healthy corms that are not soft or crumbly. Discard any damaged or rotting corms that you are storing. If you notice stunted, gnarly growth on one gladiolus plant during the growing season, remove and destroy the plant and corm, as it probably has a virus. The biggest pest of gladiolus is a small insect called thrips. Thrips feed on the flowers and leaves causing characteristic streaking and discolouring on the flowers. Thrips survive on saved corms. You can discard corms after one year and buy new corms each year to avoid thrips, or you can treat your corms before storing, by dipping them in boiling water for 2 minutes to kill the thrips. Dry before storing. During the growing season, spray your gladiolus plants at first signs of damage with Neem oil or insecticidal soap to kill them. Watch for flowers that have been affected by any pests or browning and remove any diseased plants to keep the disease from spreading. At the first frost, dig up the bulbs and allow them to dry for a few weeks before putting them in a cool, dry place for storage. Keep them in plastic mesh bags in a well-ventilated area that stays around 20-25 degrees Centigrade and then replant them in the spring.

When looking through a seed, you would often see the term hybrid (F1) or open-pollinated. But what do these terms mean? This post will explain the difference between hybrid vs. open-pollinated seeds so you can select the right seeds for your garden. What Do Hybrid, Open-Pollinated, and Heirloom Actually Mean? Open pollinated seeds are seeds that will produce plants genetically similar to the parent plant. If you plant Tomato Yellow Grapes and save the seeds, you will get Tomato Yellow Grapes when you plant the seeds next year. The one caveat is that some varieties need to be isolated (planted away from other varieties) so they don’t cross-pollinate themselves. Heirloom seeds are open-pollinated varieties that have been passed down from generation to generation. Some seed companies have decided on a set number of years old a plant has to be to be considered a heirloom. Others base the designation on just the history of the variety. Hybrid plants are created when two open-pollinated varieties are crossed to form a new variety of the same plant. While the seeds of hybrids can be saved, they will not necessarily produce the same variety of fruit/flower the next year. Actually, the majority of the time they will produce an inferior product. Hybrid seeds are often designated as F1 seeds in a garden catalog. I want to stress that HYBRID is not the same as GMO (genetically-modified organism)! A hybrid crosses two VARIETIES of the same plant (two carrot varieties for instance) while GMO means the genetic makeup of the plant has been modified in a laboratory. It may mean that a plant has had genes from animals included. This is not the cross breeding that occurs in nature. Benefits to Choosing Open-Pollinated Varieties First, you can save seeds from year to year, thus reducing your gardening costs. By keeping the best seeds each year, the plants gradually adapt to your particular growing conditions and climate. As each year passes the plants are better able to resist the stressors of your area. Even if you are purchasing seeds, open-pollinated varieties may be cheaper as only one distinct strain of genetics has to be maintained. Another benefit to OP varieties is that the flavour of many of these varieties is vastly superior to their hybrid kinds. Many hybrids were bred for commercial production so they were selected to be uniform and hold up well during transport. Benefits to Choosing Hybrid Seeds Hybrid seeds can be a good choice, especially for a new gardener. Hybrids generally produce more per acre than OP varieties. So they are usually the best choice for gardeners with limited space available to grow a garden. They also offer disease resistance that a lot of OP varieties don’t have, so new gardeners may find more success using hybrid seeds. (And for new gardeners, having success is important) And if you have a short growing season, there are hybrid varieties of some crops that are bred to reach maturity faster. By using hybrid seeds, you can sometimes grow crops you wouldn’t otherwise be able to! Hybrids also come in colours and sizes that you just can’t always find in open-pollinated varieties.

When we are asked, “Why are my seeds not germinating?” we consider a number of factors. Seeds are living organisms in as much as a certain percent of them will germinate in the correct conditions and produce seedlings, which, in the correct conditions, will produce plants and eventually more seeds. Before we put out our seeds for sale, we determine if the germination rate meets our high standards. We also test each and every seed lot annually (both in our lab and in field) to ensure that the germination rate remains higher than 80%. Choose the Right Moment Horticulturists in greenhouses and nurseries will testify to it: don’t be too eager to plant! It is important to know when is the right time for each type of seedling. Otherwise, an undesirable scenario may occur. As a result, the plant experiences a shock that considerably slows down its development. Indeed, bad weather can cause the plant to rot or become vulnerable to undesirable diseases and insects. Prepare your Seedlings in a Few Steps Before planting seeds directly outside, you should refer to the information on their respective packet. When it comes to preparing seedlings, here are some steps to consider: Fill your clean containers with potting soil that is specifically designed for planting and compact slightly. A good soil must be porous and light to maintain the moisture content and allow small roots to expand. It generally consists of peat, perlite and / or vermiculite, as well as sand. Moisten the soil without soaking it. Arrange the seeds on the potting soil without clamping them together too much. Slightly cover the seeds with potting soil. Consult the seed light requirements indicated on the packet. The distance between the seed and the soil surface depends on it. Until the first sprouts come out of the ground, cover with a dome such a plastic lid with holes. When the first sprouts come out of the ground, remove the dome. Water gently. Before you use drip irrigation to your advantage, use a spray bottle to water your seedlings. The idea is to avoid digging seeds because of water pressure. Even though they have been watered, they could dry out under the direct sun. If you have to transplant your seedlings, that is, to transplant them into a larger pot, make sure to keep the heap of soil around the roots called “clump” in the jargon of gardening. Give the Right Amount of Lighting and Ventilation At the germination stage, our seedlings do not need a high exposure of light. You should rather make sure they have enough moisture and constant heat. The holed plastic dome makes it possible to control these important factors to germination. Do not to place it in full sun. Otherwise, young sprouts stifle! At the first signs of spry leaves, the dome can be removed. Consequently, it is important to position the young sprouts to more light, that is, the sunniest place in your house. With a good dose of sunlight, your seedlings will be stronger and of a more lively green. In order to ensure that they grow straight, it is advisable to rotate from a quarter turn once or twice a week. Note that it is not necessary to add fertiliser to your seedlings, but you need to prepare the soil for a good germination. Seeds have everything they need to emancipate themselves during the first weeks!

Biocarve Seeds would like to thank all the participants ones again for enthusiastically participating in our Flower Photography Contest, 2021. This was our first initiative to promote Photography and Beauty of Nature simultaneously. Participants’ skills and efforts have made this event successful as well as meaningful. We are thankful for our honourable guests, whose judgement skills made this Contest a genuine platform for the photographers who participated. A big thanks to all our friends who came with their own talents and supported our event so efficiently. Single Flower Category 1st Prize: Mithun Kumar 2nd Prize: Sehar Kairon 3rd Prize: Dr Prasad Burange Flower Field Category 1st Prize: Amit Singla 2nd Prize: Sachin Ghai 3rd Prize: Harleen Kaur “WHERE FLOWERS BLOOM, SO DOES HOPE” with these beautiful words by Lady Bird Johnson, we hope to meet such beautiful people like you in upcoming years as well and make this one event a start of the series of events ahead.

Vinca is the genus and common name for two species of vining plants cultivated as ornamental ground covers for their glossy leaves and purple, pinwheel-like flowers. Once established, vinca tolerates drought and moderately cold temperatures with minimal damage to its health or appearance. However, the seedlings cannot tolerate dampness or chilly temperatures, so it is best to germinate the seeds when the night temperature is 25 to 30 degree Celsius Fill a 2-inch-deep nursery flat with fresh, sterile seedling compost. Leave a 1/4-inch gap between the compost and the top of the flat. Firm the compost with the palm of your hand to create a smooth, even surface. Lay out the vinca seeds across the surface of the compost. Space the seeds 2 inches apart. Press them halfway into the compost. Cover the seeds with a 1/4-inch-thick layer of compost. Mist the compost with a spray bottle to settle it. Spray the compost until it feels wet at a depth of 1 inch. Maintain a moderate level of moisture in the top inch of compost while the vinca seeds germinate. Cover the nursery flat with a black plastic trash bag to create the dark, warm conditions vinca seeds require to germinate. Remove the trash bag during germination only to water the seeds. Replace the bag immediately after watering. Watch for germination within two weeks after sowing the vinca seeds. Decrease watering and remove the black bag after the seeds germinate. Allow the compost to dry out in the top 1/2 inch before adding more water. Remove the weakest, least vigorous vinca seedlings from the flat. Transplant the remaining seedlings into individual 2-inch starter pots filled with potting soil once they develop three or four sets of healthy, mature leaves. Move the vinca seedlings to a warm, bright location where they will receive six hours of bright, diffuse sunlight each day and temperatures above 25 C. Transplant them into the garden once outdoor temperatures reliably top 25 C during the day. Space the plants two feet apart. Different Varieties of Vinca's available at Biocarve Seeds: Vinca Mediterranean XP Mix Vinca Pacifica XP Blush Vinca rosea Dwarf Mixed Vinca Pacifica XP Burgundy

Planting season is finally almost here, which means it's time to get your garden soil prepped and ready to go after the dormant winter months. And for those who are planning on planting a garden for the first time, this early soil preparation can take a little bit longer, so consider getting started sooner rather than later. If you're preparing to plant a garden for the first time, take a look at these steps for helping you get the soil prepped and ready to take care of your flowers, vegetables or herbs: Choose What You Want to Plant The first step to creating your first garden is deciding exactly what you plan on planting. Vegetables, flowers and herbs may call for slightly different environments and soil, but even if they don't these decisions are a fun way to get yourself excited. If you're planting flowers, do a little research to see which ones grow best in your climate and decide whether you prefer perennials, annuals or a mixture of both. Perennials last for years but have shorter blooming seasons, while annuals typically bloom for longer periods of time but will need to be replanted each year. Pick the Right Spot This may depend on the specific flowers or vegetables you're choosing to grow, but here are some general guidelines: Most plants need a mixture of sun and shade, so look for a spot that will get a full six hours of sunshine as well as a few hours of shade. Putting the garden next to the house usually allows for plenty of shade when the sun moves behind the building. Vegetables can be a little less tolerant if they don't get enough sun or water, so if you're growing them, make sure your spot errs on the side of more sunshine and is close enough to a spigot that you'll be able to water them easily. If you live in a climate with extremely damp springs, you may want to consider raised garden beds, which can drain a little more easily than traditional beds. That way, your plants won't drown in soil that has too much moisture. Clear Off the Top When you've chosen your spot, clear it completely of any weeds, sod or leaves that may be covering the area. You want to give your soil room to breathe and dry out a little – soil is typically too wet to handle when the snow has recently melted, so make sure to let it dry some before working with it. Do the gardeners test: Pick up a handful of soil, form a ball and drop it from 3 feet off the ground. If it breaks up easily, you can begin working the soil. If it clumps, it's too wet, and you could damage it for the whole season by working with it at that point. Prepare the Soil When your soil is dry enough, start preparing it by breaking it up. Use a tiller or hoe to loosen the top layers. This will allow the wet layers underneath to dry more and help the upper layers take in some of the nutrients of the additives you'll spread on top. Cover your soil with organic compost followed by a layer of fertiliser. Let it soak in, then use a spade to turn the soil over and mix the compost in more. This will break the soil up further, allowing any new plants' roots to take hold.

When houseplants spend the summer outdoors, they often come inside with a case of pests. To prevent problems, consider these tips: Dust and grime on the leaves of your houseplants doesn't just look bad; it can also be harmful to the health of the plant. Dust filters sunlight before it reaches the plant, decreasing the amount of photosynthesis the plant can undertake. It also stresses the plant by inhibiting transpiration. Dust and grime can also attract and spider mites and other insect pests. Wash smooth-leaved houseplants with a moist, soft cloth. For plants with many small leaves, spray them with lukewarm water or tip the plant upside down (use crumpled paper or aluminum foil to protect the soil) and swish it through a tub of water. You can add a few drops of mild liquid dishwashing soap to the water as well. Be ready with a good product for houseplant pests, such as neem oil. Never use a feather duster to clean you plants, because dusters can easily transfer tiny insects or eggs from one plant to another. Inspect houseplants for problems every time you water them. If you see signs of pests or disease, isolate the plant from your other plants until you clean up the problem. When using mild dish soap for cleaning houseplants, be sure to use one that does not have a degreaser in it. The degreaser cuts into the leaf cuticle and damages it. When finished, wipe with a soft cloth to remove lingering dust and dirt. The soapy water is also good for managing insects that like indoor plants. Of course insecticidal soap is also a good one to use to both manage insects and clean the leaves.

Soil Preparation Before going for organic farming, go for soil testing where you check your soil for various parameters including pH, nutrient levels, humus, and moisture retention. These factors build a friendly home for important soil organisms and also effectively enhance plant growth. You can add optimum organic nutrients to the soil and treated manure to improve the soil quality, texture and pH. Making good compost Compost serves as food for your plants and it helps retain the water. Make sure your compost has optimum levels of carbon and nitrogen-rich waste mixed thoroughly in soil, water and air. How to make your own compost? a) Take a plough and dig out a little soil in your garden. b) Add layers of carbon and nitrogen material (leaves, kitchen wastes, leftover foods) separated by thin layers of soil in between. c) Cover the compost pile with soil and add water to trigger microbe growth. d) Within a month or two, your compost will be ready for sowing. e) If your compost smells bad, add more layers of dry carbon wastes (leaves, straws, etc) and mix the layers often. Selecting seeds Organic farming is possible when you choose the plants that adjust to your geographical location and climatic conditions. Look for plants that easily adjust to varying temperatures, soil, moisture and drainage. When buying seeds, go for seeds that grow independent of chemicals. If you are unaware of which seeds to select, look for native plant seeds and seed varieties that can grow efficiently at your location. How to plant the seeds? Maintain sufficient space between two sowings to promote proper aeration, avoid weeding and fungal attacks. Watering Your plants need only one to two water applications per week to grow strong and deep. The best time to water your plants is daybreak when the roots absorb all the water in. It is recommended to avoid watering during the evening as it leaves your crop damp overnight making a home for harmful fungi and bacteria. Always sprinkle water on the base of the plant, on the roots and never the leaves. This is because your plant leaves are tender and more susceptible to damage. Apply water at room temperature or alternatively, you can use rainwater. Weeding and harvesting If your garden is invaded by pests and weeds, you have a big job to do! The easiest way to handle weeds is to grow diverse plant varieties in your garden. You can let natural predators like frogs, birds and lizards take care of the pests or insects. If not, you can use nets, covers and hot pepper sprays to keep your plants safe. Collect your vegetables and fruits during the harvest season. Herbs used for flavours can be collected freshly. Seasoning spices that need storage and drying can be harvested just prior to flowering to retain the maximum flavours. Pick some ornamental flower and vegetable seeds and exotic floral varieties to adorn your organic garden.

Follow these 10 easy steps to have your own wonderland at your home and design a beautiful garden. Observe the space Doing some research is highly suggested. Research will help you understand more about gardening and it’s many concepts. Consult a gardener if required. Pick a style/theme like urban garden, village garden, formal garden, geometric, wildlife, zen garden, vertical garden & many more….. You can pick any theme for your garden and then slowly work your way through it. Have a blueprint- The blueprint is very important. Blueprint is nothing but a master-plan for your garden. Plan out each and every step. Sketch a layout/drawing of your garden site and be sure to include every feature present in your garden, including fences, walls, all the immovable objects and all the natural features as well. Get appropriate measurements of your garden site. Decide and select plants & pots Decide growing medias Watering system, irrigation Place plants as per their & your requirements. The position of every plant should be in accordance with its requirements. Plants which love direct sun, should be planted where they can get ample sunshine, whereas plants which do not have a strong affection towards the sun should be planted in the shade. There are many different elements available that you could add to your garden to make it attractive. The elements like containers, furniture, planters, hedges, paths, water fountains enhances the beauty of garden. Make sure you have pavements & easy access to the garden. You can plant perennials which can serve as the basics of your garden. They will last a long time and add a splash of color to your garden. Perennial beds can be made, according to the space available. If you do not have much space, you can add smaller beds whereas an area with large space will be able to accommodate larger beds. Taller plants should be placed at the end of the beds. Use plants of different shades and colors to add a dash of vibrancy in your garden. Place your annual plants in such places where it is not hard for you to access them for weeding or any other significant activity. Usually, annuals should be placed near pathways or fences. Start slow and then keep adding new features to your garden. Pick out any theme, style and get innovative. Let your imagination run wild. Put in your best and the end result will be definitely worth it. Happy gardening!

A handy guide to problems with seed sowing, germination, general growing pains and how to avoid them. This guide to germinating seeds, has been designed to both widen and enhance the pleasure and success you get from growing your own flowers and vegetables from seed. Why didn’t my seeds germinate? There are many reasons why seeds may fail to germinate, and not all of them are your fault! Most problems are related to the sowing conditions and once you know what can go wrong, these setbacks can be easily avoided. What went wrong? The seed was old: Check the sow-by date on the packet. Seed that is beyond this date will often still germinate but the success rate is likely to be reduced. Some seed, such as parsnip, lose their viability rapidly so it is worth buying new packets each year to avoid a disappointing germination rate. It was too hot/ too cold: Indoors: Invest in a soil thermometer. Most species can be sown successfully indoors at temperatures between 13C – 21C which are easily achieved in a heated propagator or on a windowsill indoors. However, extremes of heat or cold may prevent seeds from germinating so it is well worth monitoring the soil temperature. Always check the recommended germination temperature on the seed packet. Once germinated, you can move your seed trays to a slightly cooler position. Outdoors: Keep an eye on the weather and avoid sowing if the soil is cold and wet, as this will cause the seed to rot. Seed packets usually advise when to sow but this will vary between warm southern gardens and cold northern locations. In the north it may be necessary to sow a month later than the seed packet suggests if the soil remains cold. Help early sowings along by using cloches to warm the soil. The soil was too wet/ too dry: Indoors: Seeds need moisture to germinate, but if the soil is too wet then the seeds are likely to rot. Ensure that seeds are kept evenly moist by thoroughly wetting and draining the compost before you begin sowing. After sowing you can cover the seed tray with a sheet of glass or clear plastic to retain moisture – the compost should remain damp for several days or more. If the soil surface begins to dry out then simply stand the seed tray in water until the surface becomes moist – but be sure to let it drain again. Remove the glass or plastic as soon as the seeds begin to germinate to prevent the seedlings from rotting. Outdoors: Wet, poorly drained soils and dry, sandy soils can be difficult environments for seed germination. Both can be improved by adding plenty of organic matter such as well rotted manure or homemade compost. On wet soils this will improve drainage and air circulation, while on dry soils organic matter acts as a sponge, holding water in the soil for longer. The seed were sown at the wrong depth: Some seeds need light to germinate, but many don’t. The amount of light that the seed receives will be determined by how deeply it is sown. Check the seed packet before you bury your seeds beneath the soil, as they may only need a light sprinkling of compost or vermiculite to get them underway. If no instructions are provided then seed size often gives a good indicator of how deep to sow them. Very small seed such as Begonia and lettuce only need a very light covering of sieved compost or vermiculite; while larger seed such as sunflowers and beans will need to be sown several centimetres below the soil surface. As a rule of thumb most seed can be planted at a depth of 3 to 4 times their own width. The seed needed special treatment: Did the seed packet mention pre-chilling, chipping, scarifying or soaking? Some treatments may sound a bit strange but they are essential to help the seed germinate. The seeds were eaten: Outdoor sowings of beans, peas, sunflowers and other large seed are often at risk from attack from the moment that you have sown them. Mice and birds love to dig them up for an easy snack. Protect your seed with cloches, chicken wire or netting to give them time to germinate safely. What’s happened to my seedlings? Transferring delicate seedlings from seed trays to individual pots will provide each seedling with the space, light and nutrients to develop into strong, healthy plants. But this can be a critical time in the plants development and things don’t always go smoothly. What went wrong? The seedlings were pricked out too early: As a rule of thumb most seedlings can be ‘pricked out’ when the first true adult leaves show (i.e. the second set of leaves after the initial ‘seed leaves’ or cotyledons). But before you begin it’s always worth checking that they have sufficient root to cope with the transplant process. Simply lift one or two seedlings out of the tray with a dibber and take a look. If the roots are still very tiny then postpone pricking out for a few more days, or until the roots have made sufficient growth. It won’t do them any harm and that extra time will make them more capable of coping with the transplant. The seedlings were pricked out too late: It’s easy to sow too many seeds and then find that you don’t have time to prick them out. Delays in pricking out, especially for fast growers like tomatoes can lead to competition for light and nutrients. If left for too long, your seedlings will start to look sickly as the nutrients in the soil are depleted and this can cause a significant check in their growth even after pricking them out. The seedlings were damaged during pricking out: Your delicate seedlings can be easily bruised and damaged so you should never handle seedlings by the root or stem. Seedlings emerge with two seed leaves called cotyledons before developing their first set of ‘true’ leaves, and these cotyledons can be used as convenient handles for holding your plants with. Once the ‘true’ leaves have formed these seed leaves are no longer required so it doesn’t matter if they get damaged. The seedlings just died: Did your seedlings mysteriously keel over, or rot away at the base of the stem? These symptoms are signs of damping off, caused by a number of fungal diseases, and often occur if the soil is persistently wet. Take the following steps to reduce the risk of damping off: Use fresh commercially produced compost instead a half used bag from last season. Always wash and dry pots and seed trays before re-using them. Disinfect them with a little diluted Jeyes Fluid. Don’t over water – let the compost dry out slightly between watering to keep fungal spread at bay. Water with clean tap water instead of using rain water. Keep seedlings well ventilated to ensure good air circulation.