Search Results

Valentine's Day isn't just for romance—it's also the perfect time to show some love to your leafy companions! Whether you're a seasoned plant parent or just starting your green journey, nurturing your plants can be a deeply rewarding experience. Join us as we explore the joys of loving your plants this Valentine's Day. Cultivating Connection: Much like any relationship, the bond between you and your plants thrives on care and attention. Take the time to observe their growth, listen to their needs, and respond with tender care. As you cultivate this connection, you'll find that your plants respond with vibrant blooms and lush foliage, symbolizing the beauty of mutual love and respect. Sharing Moments of Growth: Celebrate milestones in your plant's journey, whether it's the emergence of a new leaf or the first bloom of a flower. Capture these moments with photos and share them with fellow plant enthusiasts online or with friends and family. By sharing in your plant's growth, you'll find that love blossoms not only within your home but also within your community. Creating a Sanctuary of Serenity: Your home is your sanctuary, and your plants play a vital role in creating a peaceful and harmonious environment. Take the time to create a dedicated space for your plants, filled with natural light and positive energy. As you surround yourself with greenery, you'll find that stress melts away, replaced by a sense of calm and tranquility. Nourishing with Care: Just as love is nourished through thoughtful gestures, your plants thrive when given the right care. Learn about the specific needs of each plant in your collection, from watering schedules to humidity levels. By providing tailored care, you'll ensure that your plants flourish and continue to bring joy to your life. Embracing Imperfection: In the journey of plant parenthood, it's essential to embrace imperfection and learn from mistakes. Not every leaf will be flawless, and not every plant will thrive despite your best efforts. Instead of feeling discouraged, use these moments as opportunities for growth and learning. Remember, it's the love and effort you put into caring for your plants that truly matters. This Valentine's Day, let's celebrate the beauty of love in all its forms, including the love we share with our plants. Whether you're nurturing a single succulent or tending to a thriving indoor jungle, take a moment to appreciate the connection you've cultivated. From the first sprout to the final bloom, may your journey as a plant parent be filled with love, growth, and endless greenery. Happy Valentine's Day, fellow plant lovers! 🌿💚

Houseplants add beauty to any room, but some also offer wonderful aromas with their leaves or flowers. Some house plants clean air by not only absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen, but also by eliminating significant amounts of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and other chemicals from the air. The naturally fragrant plants can beautifully overshadow any artificial scents and room-fresheners. Keep fragrant plants and enjoy the feeling of earthy fragrance in your home's atmosphere. Let fresh fragrance naturally pervade your indoor space with the help of these pretty potted plants: Hedychium: The graceful, orchid-like flowers of the ginger lily have earned the common name “butterfly ginger.” They are beautiful when arranged in a vase. An entire week’s worth of fragrant air can be enjoyed from a single vase of Hedychium coronarium. It grows well in full as well as partial sunlight. Its height goes to 24-150 inches. It needs moderate water and maintenance. Lavender: The calming fragrance of a lavender plant in your home is thought to provide relief from stress, depression, and migraines. It is also considered anti-inflammatory and has antiseptic properties. Lavender helps in repelling bugs such as mosquitos, fleas, moths, and ticks. Plant lavender in full sun and well-drained soil. Water plants deeply but infrequently, when the soil is almost dry. Prune every year immediately after bloom. Rajnigandha: Rajnigandha plant is famous for its fragrance, it is a nocturnal plant which blooms at night unlike other flowers. In English, it is Known as Tuberose. Rajnigandha, or Nishigandha flower, is commercially cultivated for its use in perfumes and decorative purposes. They are fragrant flowers that grow as clusters of large, pristine, white blooms. However, it is easy to grow the plant in your home garden. The flower grows through bulbs or tubers. The flower grows on a stalk which can goes upto 1 metre tall. About 10-15 flowers blooms started from below upto 2-3 months continuously. This flower plant thrives best in well drained and highly nutritious soil. Sweet Peas: As commonly known as Sweet Pea, has a Latin name Lathyrus Odoratus. They fill the garden, house and life with scent and colour. They are the stars of our summer season. The range of sweet peas to enjoy is huge, from rich, saturated blues and purples, to pastel shades and luscious bi-colours. There are long-flowering ones with whopper stems, as well as compact ones that are good for pots. They all have fantastic fragrance and can be cut and brought in to fill the house with scent. Daffodil : The world of Daffodils offers irresistible fragrance. Their perfumes range from delicate to sweet and spicy depending on the variety. Their common name is Daffodil and their Latin, botanical name is Narcissus. Their average height and spread are 5cm (2in) to 50cm (20in). They prefer sun or light shade and are an easy to grow bulb. The plant is very resistant and most sorts survive cold winters to flower for many years. Daffodil flowers are either yellow or white, trumpet or star-shaped and grow on a long stalk with green leaves. Lemon Balm: Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is a herbaceous perennial famous for its essential oils and mild scent. Its oils and extracts are widely used in perfume and beauty products, also as household cleaning products. It takes 30-40 days to harvest. To grow well it needs full sun to partial shade. It also requires regular watering and fertile, moisture-retentive soil. Lemon balm can be cultivated as an ornamental plant that also attracts honeybees.

A plant that appears to be dead often has some life left in it and will almost mysteriously begin to grow again if given the proper care. For some plants, winters are a time when they can slow down their growth or even go completely dormant or such severely cold temperatures can send them into shock. Sometimes, plants that look dried and leaves papery may not necessarily be dead. You need to check the stems and roots for any sign of life in them. Here's in this blog “How to revive a dying plant?” we have discussed ten steps to help your plant revive, survive and flourish in this challenging season. “Any signs of green on the stem mean there’s a chance you’ll be able to bring it back to life,” says Valentino. Look for signs of life: When it comes to plants “dead” is a relative term. It may look like your plant is a goner, but when you take a closer look, that may not actually be the case. Just because your plant appears to be dry doesn't imply it can't be saved. Look for indications of vitality in the stems and roots. The roots should be greenish on the inside and the leaves should be flexible and strong. Don't give up on your plant simply because it has turned brown and lost some leaves. “Healthy roots should appear plump and be white to tan in colour with white tips,” says Jennifer Morganthaler. Check your watering: If the top soil of your plant is very dry, compacted, and cracked, and the leaves are brittle, the plant is dehydrated and needs water. The tips of the leaves will begin to dry up and brown, and the leaves will eventually turn brown, die, and fall off. You do not have to flood the soil with water, only water enough so that the soil is damp. Allowing a plant to soak in water for a few hours will quickly recover it if it has been underwatered. With this strategy, many plants can transform from droopy and miserable to gorgeous, healthy, and cheerful in just one day. However, if your plant is suffering from too much water, the roots will start to rot and mould could grow. Find out how much water your plant needs, and adjust your routine. Most plants need less water throughout the winter months. Trim dead parts: When you see the signs of a dying plant you need to start by trimming the dead leaves first. Then you need to do the same with dead stems till you see the green stems. New stems easily grow from the trimmed ones. If leaves are completely brown, they’re not coming back; you want to focus on new growth instead. To remove them, snip the dead leaves with a pair of plant shears or scissors, or gently pinch the dead leaves with your fingertips. Typically, dead leaves will come off the stem easily, but if you have to tug, use a pair of shears. Leave around 5 cm of stem above the earth if the stems are completely dead but the roots are still alive. New branches will develop from these old stems as your plant recovers. Check if your plant needs extra humidity: “If the humidity is too low, the plant can show signs of shrivelling, develop mould, fungal infection, browning and wilting” says Morganthaler. If more humidity is needed, try misting your plants regularly or grouping them together to help increase humidity. In general, plants with thicker, waxier leaves tolerate dry air better, and that’s the situation in most of our homes. Houseplants have been acclimated for life indoors and don’t necessarily need very humid conditions, most won’t like sitting next to a heater or air vent, as this can be too dry for their liking. Ferns, for example, require humidity to thrive, something the normal living room may lack. This is a simple problem to tackle. Transfer your plant to a more humid spot away from the sun. The bathroom is a good place to put the plant if it's inside your house. Provide additional nutrients: Feeding your plant is especially important during the growing seasons. You need to feed your plants at regular intervals with nutritious fertiliser. A malnourished plant will exhibit stunted growth, weak stems or discoloured and malformed leaves, so to revive a dying plant, you’ll need compost or fertiliser. “Most plants do best with a little fertiliser, usually once or twice a month, during the growing season,” says Christensen. One personal tip, use water-soluble fertilisers instead of putting the powdered one as water-soluble ones go deep down the root and work their magic where needed the most. Repotting your plant: “Soil can become depleted of nutrients over time, so repotting every few years is always a good idea,” says Christensen. An overwatered plant will have drooping leaves and will have a wilted kind of a look to it. You may also see some brown-yellow leaves while the soil around the plant may seem wet. If you feel that your plant is dying due to overwatering then the best solution is to re-pot the plant in dry and fresh soil. Remove the plant from its container with care. It's time to get a bigger container if you observe that the roots are coiling around inside of the pot. A simple repotting can sometimes be all that is required to bring a dying plant back to life. A larger container with well-drained and healthy soil can work wonders for your plant and help it to thrive. Pest control: You need to keep an eye on the signs of pests. Pests can ruin your healthy and beautiful plant. Folded leaves, curled up leaves, abnormal growth, deformed and brown-coloured leaves, at times discoloured leaves with holes and a white-looking substance deposited on the plant are signs of a big attack. Powdery mildew, root rot, and leaf spot are examples of diseases. Keep the plant isolated from the rest of your garden to prevent the pest or disease from spreading. In case your plant seems to be attacked by insects or pests you could do 2-3 things to keep it safe. To begin with, wipe your plant clean with a wet cloth, spray mild soap solution, spray neem oil or you could also buy pest control spray available in the market for plants. Move your plant: Lighting is an important factor for the health of your houseplants, so you’ll need to make sure that your variety is getting the optimal amount. Once you know if your houseplant prefers full sun, partial sun, direct sunlight or indirect sunlight, then you can move it to a more suitable area of your home. “If your plant isn’t getting enough light, moving it somewhere can help,” says Christensen. There are plants that just need moderate to indirect sunlight. If in case your plant is getting too much sun then move it in shade. You can look for dry and brittle leaves or light and dark patches that will show that the plant is under stress. Similarly, if your plant is not getting enough light then move to a better light condition. Lighting is such a vital aspect in the health of your houseplants, you'll want to be sure that your plant is getting the right amount. A plant that hasn't received enough sunshine will have pale leaves and weak stems. Wait at least a month: It can be easy to lose hope when it looks like your efforts aren’t paying off. It took a while to nearly kill your plant, and it’s going to take a while to nurse it back to health. The key is to be patient. Continue to care for your plant for a few weeks and then reassess. “Once you’ve taken steps to revive a dying plant, it can take up to a month before you start to see an improvement or new growth, so don’t give up on it too soon,” says Valentino. You may also need to do some troubleshooting before figuring out the exact problem and the subsequent solution, so the process may take longer than expected. Compost it: If you've tried everything, even waiting at least a month, and your plant hasn't improved, it's probable it's time to let it go. Place your dead plant in a compost bin instead of throwing it away to generate nutrient-rich soil that can be used to fertilise future houseplants or garden. That means your dead plant can have new life and contribute to the health of your future plants while also helping the environment.

Brilliantly coloured flowers of Ranunculus flowers are beloved for their coloured double-ruffled petals, tall stems, bushier foliage and long vase life and produce many flowers per bulb. All they ask is for plenty of sunlight, rich soil, and light watering. Ranunculus flowers look too delicate to be real, they also make long-lasting cut flowers and you can grow them very easily in your landscape or container garden for beautiful flower arrangements. The Ranunculus flower is a genus of about 600 species of plants in the Ranunculaceae. Members of this group include the buttercups, spearworts, water crowfoots and the lesser celandine. They come in many colours, including white, yellow, orange, purple, red, and pink. This flowering plant is used for ornamental purposes. These lightweight flowers are also used as the cut flowers because they can have a vase life of 7-10 days indoors after cutting. Buy the best Quality Ranunculus Flower Bulbs Online at the best price from www.biocarve.com and beautify your garden with pretty colours. When to Plant Ranunculus Flower Bulbs: Ranunculus is a cool-season flower plant and usually grows from bulbs or tubers. In plain areas, plant ranunculus in fall (September-October) for flowers in late winter or early spring (December or January). Whereas in hilly areas plant the bulbs in spring (February-March) for late summer blooms. Ranunculus are cool season flowers that grow best in spring-like temperatures of about 55°F. Ranunculus are available at many retailers when the weather is not too cold. They are most commonly available in fall and early spring. These are also the best times to plant ranunculus. It usually takes 2-3 months for ranunculus to bloom after planting. Spring to early summer is the time when it blooms. How To Grow Ranunculus Flower From Bulbs : Sowing: Plant the ranunculus bulbs directly in pots/grow bags or gardens when the night temperature is between 18-20°C. Soaking the bulbs for a two hours before planting is recommended by most gardeners to make the bulbs less brittle, but this process is not necessary. Plant 1-2 bulbs per pot for healthy growth and to avoid crowding. Pot or grow bag of at least 9-15 inches is good for it. Ranunculus are cool-season flowers that thrive in full sun to partial shade and in moist, well-drained soil. For outdoor landscape planting, select a location in bed, borders, or cutting gardens, anyplace with good soil drainage. If you notice that water still puddles 5 to 6 hours after a hard rain, it's best to find a different spot or amend the soil with organic matter to improve drainage. For outdoor landscape planting, dig holes and set your Ranunculus bulbs 2–3" deep and 4–6" apart. Cover the bulbs with soil and water thoroughly. And for outdoor container growing, be sure to choose a container that’s the right size for the number of bulbs you intend to plant and has a drainage hole at the bottom. Also, set your Ranunculus 2" deep and 3–4" apart in good-quality, well-draining potting soil (not garden soil). The eyes or bud of the bulb should be facing up, keep the claws facing down while planting. Refrain from watering again until you notice sprouts. Put the pot in a sunny place. After about 2 weeks you will see that the bulbs have developed roots and have begun to sprout. Each corm has several buds that will produce multiple flowers, and spacing them out will allow the plants to flourish. Mulch is good for protecting the ranunculus from extreme heat and retaining moisture in the soil. Watering: Keep Ranunculus moist without over watering while the foliage is green and the flowers are in bloom. Too much moisture and poor drainage can cause bulbs to rot. Clip off foliage and stop watering when the leaves start turning yellow and die back. Allow your Ranunculus bulbs to dry out when they go dormant and the foliage is gone. Water ranunculus after leaves emerge when necessary to maintain a moist planting area but do not saturate soil. Ranunculus tubers rot very easily in wet soil. Use a soaker hose or other form of ground irrigation to avoid wetting flowers once ranunculus begins to bud. The best course of action is to water deeply but infrequently, letting the soil dry out in the top 1 to 2 inches between waterings. Do not let it dry out but do not drown them. Water only if we are not getting substantial winter rains. Sunlight: Ranunculus plants need full sun and rich, well-draining soil. Prepare the planting area by incorporating several inches of compost into the soil. Ranunculus thrives in full sunlight but also grows well in partial shade. If you plan to grow indoors, put the pot on a window sill where it will get maximum hours of sunlight. The one environment that ranunculus do not tolerate is hot and wet. The cool soil of fall and early spring offers some protection from rotting, but soil that is never soggy gives extra insurance. Fertilise: Ranunculus plants do not require special fertiliser; just use a liquid fertiliser (N.P.K. 19:19:19) every few weeks once the plant is established. Sow in compost or vermicompost , compost and Coco peat 75% with 25% normal garden soil. Apply fertiliser to the planting bed after foliage dies down. Water immediately after fertilising. Temperature: Not more than 25°C - 30°C during the day and 20°C or less at night. Ranunculus bulbs will not germinate above 25C. Ranunculus flower plants grow best in temperatures between 15-24°C. Common pests and diseases: Aphids are the pests that attack Ranunculus plant. You can use neem oil to control pests. Whereas powdery mildew disease infects the plant due to high humidity and the continuous wetting of leaves. You can control this disease by removing the infected part of the plant. Ranunculus Care Tips: Amend soil with compost, fine-ground bark, or composted manure as needed to improve drainage and avoid water logging your plant. Pair with other spring flowers such as Primroses, Pansies, and Larkspur in warmer regions. Expect blooms to arrive 2–3 months after planting in the spring and last for 4–6 weeks. Start your plants indoors in containers if you live in a colder climate and move them outside to a spot with full sun after the danger of a hard frost has passed. Sowing season of Ranunculus bulbs is in the rainy and early winter season Dig a hole about three times as deep as the height of the bulb Set the bulb in the hole, then covers with soil and press firmly Planting space of bulbs 10-15 cm apart Water thoroughly after planting Use the potting mix for bulb plantation Garden soil + Compost + Perlite + Sand (2:2:1:1) or Soil + Coco Peat + vermicompost (2:1:2) Do not store bulbs for more time as they can lose their viability Water a plant when the soil feels dry to touch Try to water the plants in the morning around 8-10am Remove dead, infected or damaged plant parts and throw in the garbage collector Fertilise the plant during planting and growing season with organic fertiliser Store the bulbs away from sunlight in a cool and dry area and check regularly Ranunculus buttercup plants require temperatures of no more than 60 F. Soak the bulbs for 2-3 hours in tepid water before planting outside to give them a head start. Enjoy bountiful blooms for up to 10 days in a vase by cutting the stems when the flower buds show colour but aren't yet open. Strip off lower leaves and re-cut the bottoms of the stems when you bring the flowers indoors and change the water every other day. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs.

1. Clean up: Remove any yellowing or diseased leaves and leave the rest in place. Also remove all the dead plants. All dead and withering plants are a rich source of organic matter. Burying them in the soil will improve the overall health of the garden soil, making it more fertile for the coming months. Clean and sharpen the equipment, tools and supplies as well. Although most gardeners know they should keep tools clean and well oiled throughout the year, it’s difficult to keep up with this task when gardening is in full swing. Begin by washing tools to remove dirt and debris. If rust is present, remove with sandpaper or a wire brush. Sharpen hoes and shovels with a basic mill file. Finally, rub the surfaces of your tools with an oiled rag coated in light machine oil. This will help seal the metal from oxygen and extend your tools’ lives for another year. 2. Weed out: Weeds are truly a menace when it comes to gardening. They grow like a plague and are really tough to get rid of completely. Remove invasive weeds that may have taken hold over the growing season to prevent weeds from leaching nutrients. Chopping down and adding these unwanted weeds to the compost pile would also not stop them from growing again. Rather, dig them up from the ground and throw them out in the trash or burn them, this is the only foolproof way of ensuring these invasive conquerors don’t pay a visit to your garden during the winter season. 3. Cover-crops: Cover-crops protect your fertile garden soil from the after-effects of cold winter winds and frost. Plant cover crops like rye, crimson clover, oats, oil-seed radish, etc.! They’ll rescue the soil from being eroded by breaking up compact areas in the soil and increasing organic matter to the garden beds. While most cover crops are planted at least a month before the frost hits. Typical cover crops for grazing are cereals and legumes like ryegrass, wheat, sorghum, millet, oats, triticale, barley, hairy vetch, red and white clover, Austrian winter pea, cowpea, etc. 4. Amend the soil: The long period of the monsoons makes the soil tight and hard. It is not so suitable for planting new seeds. It is essential that the earth is loosened and oxygen goes inside the soil. For a garden bed, a well-draining and porous soil is best. Amend its quality by adding manure or compost. For the containers, go for any standard potting mix. Make your own by blending two parts of peat moss, one part of compost or manure, one part of garden soil, and one part of perlite or coarse sand. You can find all the post-monsoon care tips in our blog “How to do Post Monsoon care of your Home Garden”. 5. Compost: Harvest and regenerate your compost. Now that you have dug up all the ground, you need to apply the compost so that the fertility of the ground goes up. This creates an ideal environment for growing new plants and having larger flowers. Adding nutrients at this time of year means they have time to start breaking down, enriching your soil, and becoming biologically active. During the colder months, the microbes in the compost must be kept active. For winter composting, move compost bins to a sunnier part of the yard if possible. And use layers of leaves, straw, cardboard or sawdust to help insulate and keep warmth in the pile. 6. Replenish mulch: Mulching helps to reduce rapid water loss in plants, protects the soil from eroding and keeps invasive weeds out. Like plants, the soil also transitions from warm weather to cold winters. The freezing and thawing of the soil, at this time, can seriously affect the plants whose roots are set deep into the soil. Adding a thick layer of mulch to the soil surface in the winter will not only regulate the temperature of the soil but also regulate the moisture levels, making the plant’s transition to the winter months much easier. And as the mulch breaks down it incorporates fresh organic material into your soil. 7. Watering and Irrigation System: It would be adequate if you pay close attention to the pattern of temperature drops to have an idea of when to start winterising the system. If there is a sudden drop for only one night before temperatures spike again, you can protect the irrigation system by exposing pipes. Ultimately, it is best to prep your irrigation system before the primary deep frost, snowfall, or night when the temperature will drop. Plan beforehand to wrap insulation to protect the irrigation system from harsh winter temperatures and prevent it from freezing. Water the plant deeply whenever the topsoil feels dry to touch. Keep vegetables slightly moist all the time but ensure never to over water the plants. Also, never let the soil dry out completely. 8. Prepare the garden beds: Winter is the best time to build garden projects. Create plant supports such as raised garden beds, paths, rose arbours, sheds, or berry trellises. Make them a winter gardening project, and you’ll be ready for spring growth. Raised bed winter gardening makes growing winter crops or flowers much easier. Building a raised bed for the winter is neither difficult nor expensive. Prepare the seed beds in semi shade for seed sowing with fine soil & sand. Make the raised beds under full sunlight with garden soil & plenty of compost for planting of vegetable seedlings. Also, mix fresh green manure into the raised beds. 9. Light requirement : It is a winter gardening idea that will jump-start your growing year. A dedicated grow light system gives you plenty of room to start seeds in the winter, and you can even use it to grow a salad crop in the colder months. All you need to create one is a little space, shelves, and the right lights. Also, use it to start seeds indoors for planting outside after the last frost. Build a grow light system to grow quality vegetables, you need to provide them with at least 4-5 hours of direct sun daily. Choose a spot that gets bright light to get a plentiful harvest. 10. Plantation: Plant bare-rooted plants, cold hardy herbs and vegetables. Fill pots and hanging baskets with hardy evergreens. If you have flower bulbs in your garden, now is the time to dig them up and divide them before winter arrives. This prevents overcrowding and allows them to flower beautifully during the season. There are few flowers and vegetables to cheer up your Gloomy & Grey Winter days- Calendula, Petunia, Salvia, Zinnia, Lantana, Daffodils, Pansy, Tulip flower bulbs, Ixia flower bulbs, Freesia flower bulbs, Lillium flower bulbs, beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, peas, onion, radish, carrot, lettuce, cauliflower, etc. Avoid: Things to avoid in Winter season: Pruning, Transplanting, Feeding, and Overwatering.

As technology is evolving everyday, we have seen drastic changes in the art of farming as well. Where traditional methods were thought to be sufficient for crop production, now they have little application and appeal towards consumers as the demand for off-season yields has seen an excessive increase. So, we found a common solution and that is a Polyhouse. Polyhouse has evolved the way of traditional farming in countries like India and Bangladesh and presented new opportunities to get better and more yield while utilising fewer resources. Basically, a polyhouse is a specialized structure made from a transparent material, polyethylene, that utilises the controlled climate condition for the growth of different plants and other farming needs. The structure size can vary from small to large depending on needs. A polyhouse is a polyethylene house, so the interior of which becomes warm on sunlight exposure, and inhibits the green-house gases from escaping out. In cold weather, the inside temperature is maintained manually for the plants. Polyhouses play a significant role in protecting plants from continuously changing weather and climatic conditions like heat, sun-light, and wind. This will help the plants grow at any time of the year. Every factor affecting the yield can be controlled in polyhouse farming. Polyhouses are also known as polytunnels, tire green-houses, or over-head tunnels. It is generally a poly-ethylene tunnel, typically square, semi-circular, or lengthened. The internal environment heats-up quickly because solar radiations heat the soil, plants, and other objects present in the polyhouse. The roof and walls of the polyhouse keep the internal heat trapped. Because of which the process of heat escaping from the polyhouse is very slow which keeps heating the plants and soil. There are several automated devices that are being used to control internal humidity, temperature, and ventilation. Greenhouse Vs Polyhouse: One of the frequently asked questions is about the difference between a greenhouse and a polyhouse. So, a polyhouse is essentially a greenhouse. It can also be regarded as a type of greenhouse. Traditionally the greenhouses were made with green-colored sheets to act as a roof. Then with advancement, we were introduced to more reliable plastic sources such as polythene. The success of this new polythene in a greenhouse as well as its low cost made it a material of choice. That is how this type of greenhouse got a new name, i.e., polyhouse. Polyhouse is a scaled-down version of a green-house that uses polyethylene as a cover, whereas in greenhouses a big building covered with glass or a green cloth is constructed. Polyhouse farming is much popular in developing countries due to its low installation and maintenance costs. Advantages of Polyhouse Farming: Polyhouse is very desirable for organic farming because of its several food and environmental benefits. Some of the important benefits of polyhouse agriculture are listed below: Crop Advantages: You can grow off-season crops. Such crops can yield higher profits as they are in increased demand with little supply. You can enjoy a whole year's yield of crops without having to wait for the season’s rotations. As you are controlling the factors like humidity, temperature, and sunlight, etc. There are very few chances of crop damage and loss. A drip irrigation system provides an effective solution for the scarcity of water supply. It is also more beneficial for crop growth. Quality and Quantity Advantages: There is more control over pests and insects and your crops are less prone to lose due to them. The quality of the crop is relatively much higher. External environmental factors have little or no effect on the crops. Crops have a more favourable environment available for growth which eventually translates into higher profits. Fertiliser application becomes much easier, you can even use automated systems to make sure each plant is getting a definite amount of fertiliser for optimum growth. Reduced cropping period helps farmers to get 2 or 3 corps per year. Polyhouse can have more efficient drainage and aeration mechanisms. More production of CO2 in a polyhouse is useful for plant growth. Polyhouse Crops: The most important question is ‘What can we grow in a Polyhouse? These polyhouses are now used to cultivate almost anything under a synthetic roof. From off-season varieties of fruits to most exotic flowers, these polyhouses can yield any type of crop. Most profitable variety of crops by utilising these polyhouses: Vegetables: Broccoli, Bitter Gourd, Cabbage, Capsicum, Cauliflower, Coriander,Chilli, Cucumber, Carrots, Eggplants (Brinjal), Ginger, Green Beans, Leafy vegetables, Lettuce, Okra, Onion, Radish, Spinach, Tomatoes, etc. Flower Crops: Roses, Gerbera, Jasmine, Anthurium, Strelitzia, Carnations, Orchids, Chrysanthemum, Gladiolus, Marigold, etc. Fruit Crops: Strawberries, Raspberries, Citrus Fruit, Watermelon, Peach, Papaya, etc. Herbs: Ginger and Turmeric, etc. Nursery Plantations: Ornamental indoor plants, Cacti, Colourful exotic plants, Miniature species, etc.

Always provide fresh herbal flavors in reach when you grow these aromatic plants in your kitchen. Indoor herb gardens also fill your home with fragrance and greenery. Like any group of plants, herbs have varying needs, but most aren't too demanding about their basic care. Learn how to grow herbs indoors, including what herbs to grow indoors, tips on care and lighting, indoor herb garden ideas and a flavorful recipe you can make by using your own herb garden. Growing herbs indoors allows you to enjoy homegrown produce whether you're short on garden space or just want to add a dash of green to your interior. For newbies, it can also serve as a low-stakes entry into more substantial edible gardening–all you need is a sunny window. It also makes cooking at home easy–whenever you need some herbs, just clip a few sprigs to use in a recipe or as a pretty garnish. Tips for Growing Herbs Indoor: Once you've decided which herbs to grow indoors, you'll need to provide the right amounts of light, water, and care to help your plants thrive. Before you pot up your first plant, there are a few tips for growing herbs indoors to ensure your success: 1. Pick the Right Plants Most herbs can be grown indoors, but those that really thrive inside include no-fuss picks like basil, chives, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary and thyme. You can start herbs from seed or cuttings, which is a branch of an existing plant cut at the node and soaked in water until new roots sprout. However, you may find it much easier and faster to start your indoor garden with seedlings from a garden shop. 2. Select a Container With Drainage You can plant herbs in just about any container so long as it has some type of drainage. The pots also need something to protect the surface underneath them like a saucer or round plastic protector which you can find at garden shop centers. 3. Choose the Sunniest Spot Most herbs prefer a lot of sunlight. That means you'll want to give your indoor herb garden at least six hours of sun per day to thrive. To maximize their exposure, place plants as close as possible to your brightest window. Avoid setting them in the center of a room. Growth may be slow in the winter when there isn't much natural light. During those months, consider investing in a grow light or led light. 4. Moderate watering Water is both a friend and an enemy of herbs. Plants obviously need water to grow, but too much water rots the roots. You'll be surprised by how little water it takes to sustain a small herb. To make sure your plant grows, keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged. If the soil feels dry, it's time to water. If it feels moist, hold off for another day or so and check again. A small watering can or a drizzle under the sink will suffice. If the leaves begin to wilt or turn yellow, scale back the water. 5. Harvest a Little at a Time Harvest a few sprigs with kitchen shears or by pinching leaves off with your fingers. Regular cutbacks encourage new growth. Avoid removing more than a quarter of the plant at a time, which will cause distress and could even kill the plant. 6. Transplant When Ready Indoor herb plants are not forever. The good news/bad news is that if you do it right, your herbs will eventually outgrow their containers and need more space. If you see roots coming out of the drainage holes, growth seems to have stalled or the plant starts to flop over, it's time to transplant. Both annuals and perennials can be moved into larger pots within your home at any time; just keep them close to a light source. 7. Fertilizer Because indoor herbs can't get nutrients from garden soil and rain, they need a little bit of a boost from fertilizer. Choose a balanced, all purpose plant food . Apply the plant food at half the recommended rate every other week only when herbs are actively growing. It's better to give your plants too little fertilizer than too much. Recipe: Mixed herb salad INGREDIENTS: 1 green oakleaf lettuce, leaves separated 1/2 cup fresh basil leaves 1/2 bunch fresh chives 1/2 cup fresh continental parsley leaves 1 1/2 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp olive oil Pinch of sugar Salt & freshly ground black pepper METHOD: Step 1 Wash and dry the lettuce , basil , chives and parsley gently and thoroughly. Tear the lettuce leaves into large pieces. Step 2 Shred the basil leaves roughly and cut the chives into 1cm lengths. Place the lettuce and herbs in a medium salad bowl and toss to combine. Step 3 Combine the lemon juice and oil in a small screw-top jar. Add the sugar , season with salt and pepper , and shake to combine. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to combine. Serve immediately. Note: Prepare the salad at the end of step 1 up to 4 hours ahead. Keep the lettuce and the herbs in separate sealed plastic bags in the fridge (do not expel air from the bags). Continue from step 2 just before serving.

The practice of applying mulch is an ancient and effective technique. Mulching is forming the protective layer around the plant. It is a fundamental part of gardening to make plants look beautiful, weed-free and productive throughout the year. Mulch is used to retain moisture in the soil, suppress or block weeds, keep the soil and plant roots cool, prevent cold temperature to harm roots in winter, and make the garden bed and landscape look more attractive. At its simplest, mulch is any material that covers the soil’s surface. In nature, mulch is simply fallen leaves and plant debris. In the garden, mulch can also include compost, wood chips, rotted manure, cardboard, black polythene sheet or even seaweed. It’s only recently that we’ve come to appreciate mulch’s sustainable and ecological benefits. Done correctly, plant based mulching feeds our soil’s living microorganisms with nutrients and the waste from these tiny microbes creates healthier soil structure for plants, limiting compaction. Mulch is the ultimate gardening time-saver, no matter if you're tending to flower beds or vegetable gardens. Mulching itself may be a pain, but it reaps many rewards: When done properly, mulch cuts down on the time it takes to water, weed and fight pests. All in all, this makes for healthier fruits, veggies and flowers. For a more fruitful garden, you want to make sure you pick the best mulch for the job. Even though most mulch types will ward off pests and weeds, some cater to the needs of specific plants, trees or other crops. Mulching is usually practiced when cultivating commercially important crops, fruit trees, vegetables, flowers, nursery saplings, etc. The ideal time for mulching is the end of the rainy season. Benefits / Advantages of Mulching : Gardens take on many shapes, sizes, and characteristics. Flower gardens add aesthetic appeal to any property and range from simple to elaborate. Vegetable gardens, which can be very attractive in their own right, are regaining popularity with increasing food prices. All gardens, whether they are flower or vegetable, benefit from the use of mulch. Other advantages are as follows: Water conversion : It prevents the direct evaporation of soil water; hence crops require less water. Prevents crusting of the soil surface. Water moves more readily into soil covered with mulch instead of running off. It preserves moisture in the root zone for constant humidity level for plants. Weed control : This is the most important motive behind many gardeners using mulching techniques. It helps to suppress and reduce weed growth by keeping light from reaching the soil surface. Root development : It creates a microclimate near the root zone; it helps the white root development of the plant on the upper surface of the soil. Substrate for plants, flower, and fruit : The mulching films prevent direct contact between soil and flower, fruit, and other plant parts, helping improve flower and fruit quality. Pest control : The mulching film reflects light, so pests like aphids and thrips, leafminers, are so easy to control. It is also very effective against nematodes. While- Yellow mulching films attract whitefly and help to control whitefly growth. Heat and cold insulator : The mulching film acts as a heat and cold insulator in winter; mulch helps prevent soil from rapidly freezing, while in summer, it helps control soil temperature. Moderates soil temperatures, keeping it warmer on cold nights and cooler on hot days. Protects plants from the harsh conditions of winter freezes, thaws, and winds. Soil erosion : Mulching becomes a barrier between soil and raindrop and slows down the soil erosion process. Protects bare soil, reducing erosion and soil compaction. Improves the structure of clay soils and the moisture-holding capacity of sandy soils. Salinity level : It is observed that there is less salinity level around the dripper where mulch-film is used. Prevents Nutrient loss: It protects nutrients from evaporation, from the root zone and hence providing continuous fertility level for the plant growth.

“When God wants to move you to bigger blessings, He will allow a heavy storm to pour on you. Every plant grows after rain.” Check pots and planters’ drainage: drainage holes have its own great importance when it comes to the health of the plant. Pots and planters can easily become flooded if the drainage is compromised. Check them before, during and after rain, and cover if necessary. And it is quite necessary to decant the rain water stored in the pots. Potted plants with poor drainage will store water and that can be detrimental to the plant. Always fill the bottom of the pot with loose stones and ensure the soil is not clayey. You need a potting mix that does not retain water. If the soil in the pot appears wet and there is green moss beginning to grow on it then that indicates a drainage problem. Additionally, the excessive rain could have destroyed all the useful microorganisms present in the soil, which can have an adverse effect on the plant. It is an opportune time for pests and diseases to attack the plant. It is advisable to re-pot the plant, with a better potting medium- one that does not retain water. Use a container with ample drainage holes. Check the roots or root rot: Once the rain has stopped, make sure there are no exposed roots following soil erosion. Recover them with soil or compost before they dry out and risk harming the plant. Keep a watch on the plants, if you notice the plant drooping or the foliage blackening or yellowing then you might have a problem at hand. Unseen to the eyes, the excessive rain may have damaged the roots of the plants, setting a condition called root rot. You can salvage the plant by spraying systemic fungicide to control the problem. The earlier root rot can be identified, the better the odds are that you will be able to save the affected plants. If you suspect that your plant is suffering from root rot then first identify the problem, clean the roots under running water, remove affected areas, discard the soil, wash the pot and your equipment thoroughly and repot the plant in fresh soil. Sometimes, root rot is unavoidable, still there are many instances in which root rot is entirely preventable by using new potting soil, water as needed, using fertiliser sparingly, skipping the rocks, and also being careful with chemical treatments and fungicides. Check on the weeds: after rain, you are likely to see increased amounts of weed activity in your garden. This is because weed seeds can be spread through rain and flood waters which make their way through your garden, also moist soil is the perfect germinating environment. Not only are weeds unsightly coming into your garden, they also start competing and sharing with the roots of your plants for nutrients and water. Pluck weeds out by hand as you see them. The soft ground and soil is the perfect time for extended clearing of weeds. In addition to tidying up the general debris, remove all weeds present which will be much easier now compared to drier conditions. To pull weeds, start by breaking up the soil where the stem meets the top of the soil bed. Then, grip the bottom of the weed in your hand and pull firmly at a straight angle to remove it by the roots. Alternatively, use a weeding tool to dig into the ground and tear out the root. And once the soil has dried a little, add a layer of mulch like organic sugar cane, which decomposes to add even more nutrients to the soil. When weeding, prevent seeds from getting into the soil, you should also be sure to avoid the spread of weed seeds. And for this, a proper disposal is also very important. A weed-free garden is a happy one where your pants are getting all the nutrients they need. Check the aeration of soil: Aerating the lawn is an integral part of garden care as it allows much needed air to reach the grass roots and soil while alleviating the problems caused by excessive thatching and compacting. Garden aeration is the best way to minimise the impact of soil compactness. Over time soil can get compact due to excessive foot traffic, heavy and frequent rain or watering. The more compact the soil is, the harder it is for water, nutrients, and oxygen to reach the roots. When a heavy rain causes the soil to compact in garden beds and pots, a simple fork or a dedicated aerated tool can be used to create little air pockets and holes in the soil to allow air to flow and improve drainage. Regardless of your chosen tool, the best time to aerate the garden is when the ground is a little moist. Too wet or too risk plugging the tines with muddy soil. However, aerating bone-dry soil will make it difficult for the tines to get as deep as they should. After aerating the soil, the first thing you should do is add the extracted soil plugs to the garden, so they can serve as an additional nutrition source as they break down. The next step is to add fertiliser, so the deeper grass-roots can absorb vital nutrients as quickly as possible. Fertiliser will allow the grass to grow faster and thicker, which can suffocate the growth of unwanted weeds. If you have areas of patchy lawn, aeration gives you the option of re-seeding the grass. And finally after a proper aeration process, you will have to water the garden. This is especially important if you have re-seeded parts of the garden. Check the need of fertilisers, fungicide and insecticide: Healthy lawns and gardens require a combination of the right elements. In addition to the appropriate amount of water, sunlight, carbon dioxide and oxygen, the roots also need the right kind of nutrients. Just as humans may take vitamins or supplements to ensure they're getting what they need, the same goes for lawns. Gardeners may choose fertiliser, fungicide and insecticides after heavy rainfall because it will help increase the effectiveness of these things in the lawn or garden. It will also help reduce the chances of the fertiliser/ insecticides running off into water systems and polluting it. On the other hand, choosing to water after heavy rainfall could mean that gardeners won't be taking advantage of the natural way to get the fertiliser into the lawn. It's difficult to get the appropriate amount of land coverage just from sprinklers or watering by yourself. However, rain could get the job of watering-in fertiliser done better than any other methods. This is why people incorporate fertilisers and fungicides into their gardening routine, which holds the proper nutrients in the right amounts for most gardens. Heavy rain can cause mold, rot and fungal infections which can cause the plants to wilt after a few days. This can occur a few days or up to a week after the rain has occurred. As excess water stays in the ground, it can cause fungal infections on the roots, stems or leaves.You may notice white or black mold on the leaves or stems or even notice mold growing on the mulch underneath the plants. For plants affected by mold or fungus on their leaves I like to trim and remove the leaves before they infect the rest of the plant.Removing the affected areas is usually enough to stop the spread if the rain has stopped. A fungicide might be needed if the fungus cannot be fully removed by taking off leaves. Do not feed the plant immediately after the rains. Wait for a few days, and apply fertiliser or compost after you notice the plant looking stronger. Applying fertiliser or insecticides on a plant that has been under stress would damage it further. If you'd rather not run the risk of having a heavy rain wash out your fertiliser, you can still use it in your garden after it rains. In this case, wait until the blades of grass are completely dry before you start. Check the weather forecast not only to check for information on upcoming precipitation; also check to see if there will be steady sunlight in the days following your fertiliser use. We all know sunlight is a key component of photosynthesis, and having steady sunlight and ideal weather conditions while the fertiliser is in full effect will help enhance its effectiveness and better improve the quality of your garden. Check on the fragile and droopy plants: Plants can droop after rain when the leaves and stems become heavy with water and can bend or break. The soil can lack oxygen after multiple days of heavy rain or the plants can suffer from rot. By mulching the plants well, trimming off long stems and adding some extra fertiliser you can save your plants. Very heavy rain can wash away water soluble nutrients, in particular nitrogen. Heavy rain can wash out fertiliser, natural soil nutrients or any liquid fertiliser you might have added. For tall plants with long stems they can easily droop in heavy rain. The rain drops can stick to the leaves, weighting the plant down and the leaves and stems will droop. To prevent damage to plants during heavy rain is to mulch them well. This will prevent soil runoff, can absorb extra water and prevent the soil from becoming soggy. In short, plants can droop after heavy rain due to the weight of the rain pulling down the stems and breaking them. Droop can also occur due to a lack of nutrients, compaction of the soil or fungal infection. Remove any damaged stems, add more mulch to absorb extra water and add a slow release fertiliser. Check to prune the plants: Pruning, in horticulture, the removal or reduction of parts of a plant, or tree that are not requisite to growth or production, are no longer visually pleasing, or are injurious to the health or development of the plant. Prune your plant with pruning & cutting tools as you see fit and take off the parts as soon as the rains hit. This is the right time for new shoots to grow but they will need some space for that. pruning, in horticulture, the removal or reduction of parts of a plant, tree, or vine that are not requisite to growth or production, are no longer visually pleasing, or are injurious to the health or development of the plant.

Monsoon is beautiful weather for plants to grow and flourish.This is the best period for growing new plants, starting a new home garden, planning a terrace garden and maintaining your current home garden. In monsoon, plants grow very rapidly so they require extra care. Here, we are going to talk about how to take advantage of this naturally occurring cycle, and work with nature to create some beauty in your home garden. Home Garden Care Tips During Monsoon: Fertilisation: Fertilise the plants to accelerate the growth. You could use 6 months old cow manure (FYM - Farm yard Manure), home-compost or vermi-compost for plants. It is better to use natural fertilisers than chemicals for plants during monsoon. Also the requirement increases not only because of plant growth season but also due to rain, there is frequent wash out of applied fertilisers. Slow release fertilisers like Cow dung manure has been proven to be the best manure for plants. Some gardeners also use foliar spray of NP&K (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) nutrients to feed plants. During the monsoon season, the stomata (pores) in the plants open up and spraying the fertiliser helps the plants to absorb them immediately. Soil: The soil mixture should be a well draining soil to avoid water stagnation and root rot. A well draining soil is indispensable for your plants especially in the rainy season. This is the reason why we always recommend you to prepare a well draining soil for each and every plant during repotting. Use up to 30% coco-peat in a potting mixture. Watering: Overwatering is the most common cause of plants to die during monsoon. Root rot is very common so to avoid it, water the plant only when you see the drying soil. Excessive watering can suffocate roots and affect the soil’s fertility and your plants may not survive for long. Proper drainage in pots: Double-check the drainage holes of pots and remove any obstruction if present for draining of excessive water. Make sure you insert a sharp pointed tool like a screwdriver into the drainage hole and make sure it's open. This is a very important care tip in the rainy season because stagnant water can suffocate and rot the roots of the plant easily and this is the high time for fungus attacks. This also helps in breeding of mosquitoes and diseases like dengue. Hence, rain water during the monsoon should be drained out completely as much as possible. It's also better to avoid using trays under your pots. It is important to move your pots to a place where the plants are not damaged by heavy rain and get enough light. This is especially essential to avoid soil erosion. Pest control:During monsoons the pests like slugs, snails flourish so spray insecticide regularly to avoid pest infestation. Mix neem oil in water and sprinkle on plants as a natural pest repellent. Though, some pests like earthworms help in plant growth by aerating the soil. This is the time when they are found maximum and if you find them concentrated in one container, you can pick them up and spread them around the garden to allow best fertilisation of soil at multiple places. And frogs, on the other hand, help in pest control in gardens so they are called Gardener’s friends. Trim/ Prune: Plant growth is maximum in the rainy season. Trim or Prune regularly to enable fresh growth of the plants in your garden. Trim the branches of your trees and get rid of dry and dead leaves and extra growth that may have happened. Prune and trim the plants either just before the season starts or during the season to boost flower budding and prevent wild growth.This helps the fresh shoots to grow and increase branching and growth. Pull out the weeds: Weeds can grow rapidly during the rains and thus soak up the nourishment intended for your plants. Hence, keep weeding in timely intervals to avoid harmful growth. Important points to note: Check there is no stagnation of water in pots. Remove excessive plant growth Protect plants from insect pests.

Vastu is an ancient Indian science of architecture and buildings which helps in making compatible settings or a place to live and work in a most scientific way taking advantage of the benefits granted by nature, its elements and energy fields to amplify wealth, health, prosperity and happiness. According to Vastu-Shastra, North and East direction is considered auspicious for gardening in the home. If a garden is set up in this direction, it will always maintain positive energy in your home and keep negative energy away. Vastu-shastra suggests, the garden should never be kept in a South or West direction. If the gardening or plantation is done in the North then it brings new opportunities in your career and helps in professional growth. According to Vastu-shastra, one should never plant a spiky or thorny plant in the North direction. Planning and designing your garden as per Vastu Shastra can remarkably alter your mood, while also establishing health and prosperity. TOP TEN RECOMMENDED PLANTS FOR YOUR HOMES:

African daisies (Osteospermum spp.) look a lot like common daisies, with petals radiating around a center disk. They are even members of the Asteraceae family, along with Bellis perennis daisy and zinnias. But their vivid colouring is not at all like the classic daisy. In fact, when African daisies were first introduced to the market, some people thought they must have been dyed. The center disks of the flowers even can look like they're coloured with metallic paint. Petals can be smooth and flat like a typical daisy, or they can radiate out in a tubular spoon shape. The leaves vary by variety; they can be lance-like or broadly ovate and smooth, toothed, or lobed. These flowers are best planted in winter when night temperature reaches 20°C, and they have a fairly quick growth rate, blooming about three months after sprouting from seeds. These tender perennials are planted as annuals. African Daisy Care African daisies work equally well in the ground or in containers. Blooms peak in late spring to early summer. Because African daisies stop blooming during hot spells, they are best grown in combination with other plants that will have visual interest in the peak of summer. These flowers are fairly low-maintenance when grown in an environment they like. Make sure they have lots of sun and soil with good drainage. Plan to water and fertilize regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall). Also, deadhead the plants (remove the spent blooms) to encourage reblooming. Light African daisies bloom best in full sun. They can tolerate partial shade, but this will likely cause them to produce fewer flowers. The blooms generally open in response to light and close at night and during overcast weather. However, some newer cultivars, including '4D Pink', '4D Silver', and '4D Berry', remain open at night. Soil African daisies prefer organically rich soil with sharp drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. Add compost or other organic matter to the soil at the time of planting to improve drainage and add nutrients. Water Although somewhat drought-tolerant once established, African daisies still need at least 1 inch of water per week to grow their best. During periods of drought or intense heat, the plants will slow down and go dormant. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist. But don't overwater, as soggy soil can encourage diseases such as root rot. Temperature and Humidity African daisies prefer mild weather, which is when they bloom most profusely. They can handle nighttime temperatures down to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit, though frost will damage or kill them. Humidity typically isn't an issue for them, as long as they have good air circulation and proper watering and soil drainage. Fertiliser These flowers like a lot of food to grow and bloom at their best. Besides mixing compost into the soil, apply a balanced fertiliser for flowering plants monthly throughout the growing season. Potted plants may require even more frequent feeding. How to Get African Daisies to Bloom African daisies generally don't need a lot of encouragement to bloom, but like many flowering plants, regular deadheading of spent flowers will prompt additional blooming. Several conditions can cause reduced blooming: Poor nutrition: If your plants don't bloom well, try increasing their feeding to every two to three weeks. Potted plants in particular require more fertiliser. Extreme heat and extreme dryness: Try shading your plants and giving them extra water if they don't bloom adequately. Insufficient light: African daisies generally tolerate partial shade, but too little sun will result in leggy plants that don't bloom very much.